Monday, February 24, 2014

East African Vacation- Tanzanian Safari


Safari- Tanzanian Style!

My travel wishlist activities come in three categories:
  • Wouldn't mind doing
  • Want to do 
            and...
  • The Bucket list 
Kilimanjaro was in the "Wouldn't mind doing" category but the Safari was my Bucket List!
After researching looking for the best place to safari in Africa I finally decided on the Serengeti in Tanzania because I wanted to see one of the Greatest Wonders of the World, "The Great Migration".   The Serengeti is primarily located in Tanzania with small portion in Kenya.  This is one of the more "authentic" viewing experiences because many of the animals are following their natural movement for survival.

Manyara Stop Over
We departed Arusha and started our 7 day Safari in the Manyara Reserve which is known for a lake with Flamingos. This was a great location to break of up trip from the city to the Serengeti. Greeting us right outside the reserve were some baboons crossing the road looking for food from passing vehicles.


 I had a difficult time containing my excitement and I wasn't disappointed because as soon as we drove in there were elephants on a few feet away from us eating their lunch.
Manyara Elephnts
Our Ride Toyoto Landcruiser







The next morning while traveling on the highway we suddenly stopped because elephants were running across the road.   I don't remember seeing an "Elephant Crossing" sign along the highway!!

Ndutu Bound
The Ultimate Goal of this trip was to visit Ndutu, an area near the serengeti where the migration was supposed to be that time of year.

Our route took us through the beautiful Ngorongoro Conservatory Area and the highlands of the rift valley. As we drove along the highway that turned into  dirt rough road we spotted a variety of animals grazing along the side of the highway. Zebras, buffalo and ostriches were more plentiful that the deer we see along our highways.  It was soooo coool!


 
Beautiful Antelope




The Ndutu area was my favorite location on the safari not only because this is where the Great Migration was located, but we could drive off road anywhere we wanted. Sometimes this resulted in vehicles getting stuck in mud. It was an incredible experience to have lunch in the middle of a heard of wildebeast and zebras.
There were Wildebeast Everywhere!


I felt I had to pinch myself when leaving our camp because we often saw Giraffes hanging out and eating along the side the road.  Lions were also eating alongside the road. Starting out at 6am gives the best chance to see lions active and hunting for their food. 
The  Lion's Breakfast

It's the Serengeti
 After two days exploring Ndutu enjoying the abundance of wildlife, we then headed to the Great Serengeti.  There were many more people here and this wasn't the busiest season.  The star animals of the Serengeti were the leopard and the cheetah.  The leopard was often spotted resting in a tree but when it started to climb down the tree our driver was anxious to drive off. I wonder if he had a bad experience with  leopard in the past.

We also watched a cheetah hunt a gazelle while the paparazzi (us and 25 others) stood in the way between he and his dinner.


Leopard in Tree

Cheetah in Action

Paparazzi


The animals see the safari trucks as another animal that is just hanging around so they don't mind, usually, when we get close all except for a Mommy Elephant that charged our truck because she thought we were too close to her baby.
Bat Foxes
Lion Cub
Hyrax













The balloon safari that took about 16 of us on an sunrise ride over the Serengeti was very peaceful and graceful. The finale was a bush English breakfast with tasty mimosas.  Can you believe this was my very first real balloon ride?  and I did it in the Serengeti!


This is how the balloon basket was loaded



Bush Breakfast

The animals travel the same path year after year















Ngorongoro Crater 
The crater is a very scenic volcanic caldera in the highlands that is only inhabited by the animals.  At first I wasn't planning to visit this area because I was concerned about crowds and didn't want a zoo-like experience but I was told that viewing the animals was unpredictable and at this location we were guaranteed to see almost anything that we didn't see in the Serengeti.

Also, this is the only place where we could see the nearly extinct black rhino that is being poached for Chinese aphrodisiacs.  I am so glad we took the time to visit this park because the views were lovely and the crater rim cloaked in the clouds provided a mysterious backdrop.

Rare Black Rhino
The Crater View










Where We Laid Our Heads
During the safari we stayed at 3 different camps and lodges.

On our way to Kirurumu tented camp, outside of the Manyara Reserve, we drove down a long dirt road that seemed to go no where but ended at a cute little place where we stayed in canvas lodges with hardwood floors.  The Maasai (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maasai_people) escorted us between our tents and the restaurant.

  Our next camp was in Ndutu on Lake Masek home to some hippos.  This was a lovely accommodation with beautiful tents, a large tub and an outdoor shower.  The Maasai also escorted us after sunset between our rooms and the restaurant for security.  This camp is located in the middle of the wilderness so there are wild animals all around.


While in the Serengeti we stayed in a mobile tented camp that usually follows the migration.  I selected this option because I heard that it is in the heart of the animals' home and sometimes you can hear the wild animals right outside of the tent zipper.  I wasn't let down.  In the middle of the night I heard heavy breathing and mooing...it turns out that the buffalo were right outside with nothing separating us except some canvas.
Our Deck

Wash Room

The Toilet






Our last place was the Rhino Lodge on the Ngnorongoro Crater.  I selected this location because the rooms had a fireplace to keep us warm during the cool nights and animals roam the grounds.  As soon as we checked in I walked out on our small patio and buffalo were right outside of our room roaming around.  There was a warning not to get close to the railing while the animals were out.

Between Us and the Animals

What I liked the best...this view







Sunday, February 16, 2014

The Road to Kilimanjaro - I Am Back!!



Kilimanjaro
                                                                    

I Am Back!!

For the last month I have been in East Africa and it has been a tremendous experience trekking the enormous Mount Kilimanjaro, observing the animals in the vast Serengeti and exploring ancient Ethiopia. The trip started as an adventure…


Due to weather and whatever else, our flights from North Carolina were delayed for three days so two of us didn’t arrive in Tanzania as scheduled, and because my bags were delayed I didn’t have my clothes and equipment for 4 days into our climb.   I am fortunate that many of my essentials were in my carry on bags and that I have a very good friend who let me borrow some other items.  




This was an amazing but very challenging experience, with each day unfolding revealing some of the most beautiful, dramatic and diverse scenery.  The first day was a jungle that transitioned in to desert- like climate.

On day 5 and 6 I felt like I was hiking on Mars because there was no vegetation in sight...this is because of the thin air which also made it difficult to breathe and made our muscles weak.

       
Meadows

Mars???
Stella Glacier

 
The Lemosho route which is the most breath-taking of all routes, was one of the few locations with the rare black and white monkey.  One night while going to the bathroom we were almost attached by some animals...maybe they were monkeys...all we saw were 6-8 pairs of eyes coming closer and closer.



Plant Life...







Even though it was below or around freezing most days the bright sunshine each morning kept us warm until it was hidden behind the fog that rolled in each afternoon. 





 

This was Crazy!!!



The most difficult day was when we had to climb Barranco Wall which was very difficult and dangerous but after that day I knew then I would make it to the summit.










                                                                                                

At night our sleeping bags kept us comfortable until we had to use the bathroom in the middle of the night mainly due to the medication we had to take for the altitude. 

One of our Camps
                                                                 

Our Tents and Toilet in the Green Tent

I had second thoughts about renting a toilet until Day 1...it was a life saver to have our own so close by. It took every bit of energy to walk and stumble over rocks in the dark to our toilet.
                                                          
 


The food…Shaban, our cook provided us with delicious meals that kept us satisfied each day.  Breakfast consisted of hot cereal (which I don’t like) eggs, fruit and toast.  Lunch usually consisted of meat, fruit and hard boiled eggs.  Dinner started with soup, then an entrĂ©e (rice, spaghetti, chicken…) and concluded with fruit. 

Soup almost every day while in Africa










The porters who carried our luggage, food, water, tents and whatever else we needed are the most athletic trail runners I have seen.  They can run across the gorges, up the rocks and down the scree carrying equipment on their heads and backs.  Their hard work made it easy for us to focus solely on trekking the mountain successfully.




 Summit day started on Day 6 around 11:30pm in the dark and was full of anticipation, sleepiness, fulfillment and frustration that ended 20hrs later in the dark!!  The training (mountain hiking since May, running the stairs at the Duke stadium and jogging on the weekends) did pay off because the only thing sore on me was my toe which I injured on the way down.  I was exhausted for several days :-)

The air was very thin but other than the tiredness I don't think I suffered much from the altitude thanks to hydration, conditioning and medication!

 
Stella Point is on the Summit but about 1hr away from the highest point. A decision was made not to go further up (see the hill behind me) which was the right decision because of illness in our party on the way down.

It was windy and cold up top but I really didn't need all of the clothes I had on that others who previously trekked the mountain suggested.  I had on 4 pairs of socks, four pairs of pants and 4 layers up top not including a head liner. wool hat and hood.  About an hour into the climb I had to come out of my wool sweater and wanted to take off two layers of pants if I had the energy to take off my boots.
 

 I
An 80 years old celebrating at the top...incredible!!


Sunburnt and exhausted we continued onto the safari after exiting the park! 

Thank you all for your support, prayers and thoughts. Those who trained with me, my house sitters, those who picked me up form the airport, assisted with trip supplies and most of all encouragement!   Special thanks to my trekking partners!!!  

The support helped me through the tough days on the mountain.